Lingering S4 issues...
So the laundry list continues. The good news is that the motor hasn't thrown a single code since it's last check-up...and that has never happened before. So it's safe to say that the motor is running decently. However, I've been logging IAT (intake air temps) and AFM (air fuel mixture) and seeing some significant ineffiencies that don't show up in day to day driving...only when I'm on boost and WOT. So here's my list of to-do's in order of priority:
1. Fix nagging oil drips by replacing the lower oil pan gasket (already have the parts)
2. While I'm at it, replace the upper oil pan gasket (I have the parts)...yes, Audi's have two oil pans...why? I have no idea. I have to remove the lower endlinks and front sway bar to get to it.
3. Replace the valve cover gaskets. Easy job but I have to take alot of parts out to get to the damn thing.
4. New rear tires, again, GY F1 GSD3's 91Y's in 225 40 17's. Love these tires.
5. Still getting a "clunking" in the steering and suspension coming from the driver's side. The "thumping" I experienced was diagnosed and cured when I replaced the control arms and tie rod ends. I checked the bolts on the coilovers...good...and the three bolts holding the steering rack...all were good. And the last bolt required the car to be on jackstands and for me to attach three extensions and a wobble head to get to! I'll need my mechanic to look at this problem. I hope the fix doesn't involve a steering rack replacement. I suppose I can get a refurb for cheap and do the job myself but after I looked at the DIY, I almost puked and am considering Dynospot do the job for me.
6. Replace rear brake pads and garnet sandpaper my old rotors. They still have some life to them.
7. New Walboro fuel pump. My OEM pump simply can't handle the increased injector request. My air fuel mixture is off tolerance past 4500RPM so a higher flowing unit typically cures this problem. Walboro's cost around 250, not bad, but the DIY is a killer. I have to pull the rear seats, jimmy-rig a tool to unfasten the old unit, and splice some wiring...YUCK! Maybe I can get thePerfectline or The Craftsman to help out.
8. New intercoolers. My OEM's are rated at 8 PSI...I'm running a 22 spike. Here we have a number of choices. Folks are of two minds re. this modification. One camp holds the belief that bigger is best, meaning the lowest intake air temp means your intake is receiving the most dense air...more power, less heat, better for the motor, no crazy timing corrections, etc. Others, like myself, believe that an intercooler is simply a frickin heat-sink; increased cost is simply a bling issue IMO. So my choices are (from most expensive):
- Evolution Racing intercoolers $1600 Massive side mounts, tested to 50 PSI! Eliminates the need for lower intake hoses (awesome), intakes are now hard piped units.
- ASP Front mount intercoolers $1500 Huge, the MOAB of front intercoolers. Requires modification to your front bumper it's so big.
- AWE Tuning $1400 Huge side mount units. Best fitment, finely crafted, comes with shrouds, and a warranty.
- APR $1200 These are standard units from the RS4, no need for shrouds, and comes with specially designed silicone intake hoses you can get for 250. The hoses are totally bad ass. I'd love to get just these! ThePerfectline exploded one of mine and I've popped off my old hoses several times. These hoses are simply awesome. The Intercoolers, on the other hand, are simply so-so.
- IPP $800 Cheap knock-offs. The designers simply challenge their competition to prove them wrong. These guys do not believe that bigger is best, or even necessary!
- EBAY $300-$400 IPP knock-offs from Korea. I love these guys. Same intercooler cores as IPP and same welded endtanks you find in units costing 4 times as much. I'm probably heading in this direction. They're sufficiently bigger and flow much better than my OEM.
And as to my wish list:
1. New wheels. I've found some TSW's that look fantastic, offer a reduction on unsprung weight of nearly 3.5 lbs per corner even at 18x8's, and are cheap. FLIK's are cheap as hell but I simply can't stand the way the look...and they're just as heavy as stock in 18x8's.
2. New front brakes; calipers and rotors. Don't believe in the need for matched rear brakes or massive 8 piston ALCON's...I'd be happy with Stoptec's or even Porsche brakes if someone is getting rid of them.
3. New Coilovers; only one choice in my opinion, Stasis Track Sports...nuff said. Among the hundreds of thousands of Audi's the world around, Stasis' superiority is unquestioned.
Thats is for now.
1. Fix nagging oil drips by replacing the lower oil pan gasket (already have the parts)
2. While I'm at it, replace the upper oil pan gasket (I have the parts)...yes, Audi's have two oil pans...why? I have no idea. I have to remove the lower endlinks and front sway bar to get to it.
3. Replace the valve cover gaskets. Easy job but I have to take alot of parts out to get to the damn thing.
4. New rear tires, again, GY F1 GSD3's 91Y's in 225 40 17's. Love these tires.
5. Still getting a "clunking" in the steering and suspension coming from the driver's side. The "thumping" I experienced was diagnosed and cured when I replaced the control arms and tie rod ends. I checked the bolts on the coilovers...good...and the three bolts holding the steering rack...all were good. And the last bolt required the car to be on jackstands and for me to attach three extensions and a wobble head to get to! I'll need my mechanic to look at this problem. I hope the fix doesn't involve a steering rack replacement. I suppose I can get a refurb for cheap and do the job myself but after I looked at the DIY, I almost puked and am considering Dynospot do the job for me.
6. Replace rear brake pads and garnet sandpaper my old rotors. They still have some life to them.
7. New Walboro fuel pump. My OEM pump simply can't handle the increased injector request. My air fuel mixture is off tolerance past 4500RPM so a higher flowing unit typically cures this problem. Walboro's cost around 250, not bad, but the DIY is a killer. I have to pull the rear seats, jimmy-rig a tool to unfasten the old unit, and splice some wiring...YUCK! Maybe I can get thePerfectline or The Craftsman to help out.
8. New intercoolers. My OEM's are rated at 8 PSI...I'm running a 22 spike. Here we have a number of choices. Folks are of two minds re. this modification. One camp holds the belief that bigger is best, meaning the lowest intake air temp means your intake is receiving the most dense air...more power, less heat, better for the motor, no crazy timing corrections, etc. Others, like myself, believe that an intercooler is simply a frickin heat-sink; increased cost is simply a bling issue IMO. So my choices are (from most expensive):
- Evolution Racing intercoolers $1600 Massive side mounts, tested to 50 PSI! Eliminates the need for lower intake hoses (awesome), intakes are now hard piped units.
- ASP Front mount intercoolers $1500 Huge, the MOAB of front intercoolers. Requires modification to your front bumper it's so big.
- AWE Tuning $1400 Huge side mount units. Best fitment, finely crafted, comes with shrouds, and a warranty.
- APR $1200 These are standard units from the RS4, no need for shrouds, and comes with specially designed silicone intake hoses you can get for 250. The hoses are totally bad ass. I'd love to get just these! ThePerfectline exploded one of mine and I've popped off my old hoses several times. These hoses are simply awesome. The Intercoolers, on the other hand, are simply so-so.
- IPP $800 Cheap knock-offs. The designers simply challenge their competition to prove them wrong. These guys do not believe that bigger is best, or even necessary!
- EBAY $300-$400 IPP knock-offs from Korea. I love these guys. Same intercooler cores as IPP and same welded endtanks you find in units costing 4 times as much. I'm probably heading in this direction. They're sufficiently bigger and flow much better than my OEM.
And as to my wish list:
1. New wheels. I've found some TSW's that look fantastic, offer a reduction on unsprung weight of nearly 3.5 lbs per corner even at 18x8's, and are cheap. FLIK's are cheap as hell but I simply can't stand the way the look...and they're just as heavy as stock in 18x8's.
2. New front brakes; calipers and rotors. Don't believe in the need for matched rear brakes or massive 8 piston ALCON's...I'd be happy with Stoptec's or even Porsche brakes if someone is getting rid of them.
3. New Coilovers; only one choice in my opinion, Stasis Track Sports...nuff said. Among the hundreds of thousands of Audi's the world around, Stasis' superiority is unquestioned.
Thats is for now.